I went in to town and bought an air-impact. This compact 1/2" one was rated at 500 ft-lbs and cost a modest $90 so I picked it up. Alarmingly, the set of impact sockets were $50 and I only needed the 22mm, but it wasn't sold individually... whatever I bought them, gotta get the job done after all. I figured with the upcoming motor swap in the T100 I would get some good use out of them. The impact is actually quite nice and very light/compact for the power. I'll be bringing this back to Canada to augment my selection there.

I hooked it up to my tiny little pancake compressor and while it only gave me about 5 seconds of full power action before it needed to pump itself back up again, it got the job done.

With the bolt out, you can just give the crank pulley a wiggle by hand and it should slide off the roll pin.

With the pulley off, remove the lower timing cover, there are 4 bolts.

Now we can remove the engine support bracket.

So basically it went down like this, I was half-planning to do the timing belt on the car, since the mileage was at just about double the service interval on it, but I was going to take care of some other shenanigans first. Then I was driving up the hill and the car started to overheat pretty badly with zero heat coming through the heater vents in the car, so I figured the water pump was gone out. As the water pump is driven off the timing belt, it gave me the extra push to tackle both jobs.

I read some guides online but in honesty I modified quite a few steps to save me some time and to make the whole setup work a lot quicker. So here's my rendition.

If you car still has a decorative engine cover you should pull that off, mine doesn't.

First, jack the car up and pull the passenger side wheel off.

Next, pull the cover located in the passenger footwell to give you access to the crank pulley. It is held in by two bolts.

Then rotate the crank pulley until you line up the timing marks on the pulley and lower timing belt cover.

So right off the hop, the car's clutch felt super wonk. I knew the clutch was nearing the end of it's life because it would engage right at the very top of the pedal travel. However, there was something else, an intangible disconnection from the pedal, the action always felt kind of inconsistent. When I had inspected the car before buying, I had noted that the clutch fluid looked more like a stout than a DOT4, so I figured moisture and junk in the fluid was the culprit.

I initially flushed the system out with fresh fluid, but the pedal action felt identical.

Whilst searching for some way to adjust the clutch travel so that I could hopefully get a tad more life out of the poor worn clutch disk, I came across this hack mod and decided it was worth a shot.

To gain access to your clutch slave cylinder, you'll remove the airbox lid by undoing the clamp at the MAF, and cutting your airbox-lid retaining ziptie (the car came without spring clips - don't worry, they're in the mail). Next remove your air filter and undo the 2 remaining bolts in the bottom of the airbox. I say remaining because my 3rd bolt was missing. I ordered a new one, then noticed during this procedure that whatever bracket it would have been fastened to under the airbox was missing. Normally these cars come with a resonator box deal which on mine had been replaced with a straight-pipe, so I'm guessing that's my missing connection.

Now you can remove the lower half of the airbox and you'll see your clutch slave cylinder sitting there.

Here she is with her dress hoisted a la Marylin Monroe. Don't mind the section of PVC plumbing pipe being used to keep the hood up, just the hood struts are pooched. My Ford failed the safety because the hood struts were bad, but in Hawaii, well let's say the ANNUAL "safeties" are pretty lax, as you'll see.

The battery was dead and needed to be boosted when the car was on the lot. Even though I'm sure it was fine and just had been sitting too long, they put a new one in, which was nice of them. Now let's have a look at some of the not so nice bits.

In the photos below you'll spot some interesting eBay add-ons that made their way onto the car for some reason. Firstly, you'll notice the 24K gold plated super negative terminal post with ground straps. Because I guess the stock one that works fine is insufficient, you really need to run some 4AWG cables to a bunch of bolts on the motor and chassis. You know, in case your engine should suddenly need to discharge 65 thousand watts of pent up HORSE POWERRRRRSSSS... Let's just nevermind the fact that we're still using stock (+) cables on everything. Because you know. eBay. Oh and in the second pic towards the bottom you'll see where the one cable was chafing against the (+) terminal on the battery. Safety first.

Next up you'll notice the VIOLENCE RAIZIN VOLT STABILIZER. Because no one wants unstable volts. This thing houses a bunch of capacitors by the looks of things. And there's a big ol' 4AWG cable for the (+) terminal and another for a chassis ground. This device reportedly (according to the forumz), stabilizes your power delivery, make the car idle smoother (what?), keeps your headlights from dimming when you turn stuff on, and frees up about 5-7hp (I shit you not, that's what one of the car mags claims to have backed up on the dyno). Now there's only one problem. Some capacitance could, potentially, smooth out the voltage spikes and dips that happen with varying loads, IF they were hooked up in series between the battery and the car's electrical system. But this gizmo is hooked to the (+) and essentially the (-). Soooo... power can flow through the circuit, and have no effect on anything... and that's about it. Not to mention the thing's hooked up all the time, so if current was actually passing through it to "do" something, it would kill the batt when it was sitting not running. And those caps are tiny little itty bitty things too, like they could actually hold any kind of meaningful charge.

Next on the crock list is the Pro-Coat rust killer doodad. Now as we all know impressed current cathodic protection devices can't actually keep anything from rusting unless whatever you are trying to protect was sitting in an electrolyte, so unless you drive around in an aquarium full of seawater all the time, these are just a crock.

It seems the guys that replaced the battery were smart enough to unhook the violence and pro coat shenanigans. I just pulled them out completely.

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Project Build

Project Build is about bringing together the community of car enthusiasts. Together we can build one central place to congregate and talk about cars. Project Build makes it easy for you to document procedures performed to your automobile, from changing your oil to swapping out your engine. Learn More...

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